My neighbour tried grass seed three summers in a row. Every spring she’d rake, spread, water twice a day, and by January it was patchy dirt with a few sad green tufts near the tap. Last winter she gave up and laid artificial turf over a weekend instead. Her exact words: “Why didn’t I do this five years ago?”
If you’ve got a bare patch that won’t hold real lawn — under a tree, along a side path, a rental you can’t dig up, or just a small courtyard that gets no rain — synthetic turf solves it in a day, not a season. Here’s exactly how to lay it properly, so it looks flat, doesn’t shift, and doesn’t sprout weeds through the middle six months later.
What you actually need before you start
Most people underestimate prep and overestimate the turf itself. The grass is the easy part. Getting the base right is what stops it looking lumpy or draining badly after rain.
- A roll of artificial turf sized to your space — the 35mm synthetic turf in 2m x 5m rolls covers 10 square metres per roll, which is enough for most courtyards, side strips or a dog run
- A weed barrier to go underneath (don’t skip this — more on why below)
- Crushed rock or road base (roughly 50-75mm deep)
- A compactor or hand tamper
- Sand for infill (kiln-dried or washed river sand)
- A stiff broom, sharp knife, turf pegs or nails, and a wheelbarrow
Step 1: Clear and level the ground
Dig out any existing grass, weeds and roots to a depth of about 75-100mm. Rake it roughly level. If your site slopes toward the house, now’s the time to correct that — even a gentle fall away from walls saves you drainage headaches later. Don’t rush this bit; an hour with a rake here saves a bumpy lawn for the next ten years.
Step 2: Lay a weed barrier before anything else
This step gets skipped more than any other, and it’s the one people regret. Artificial grass doesn’t stop weeds on its own — seeds still blow in and germinate in the base layer underneath, and without a barrier they’ll push straight up through the joins in your turf within a season.
For smaller jobs like a courtyard or a single garden bed conversion, the 0.5m x 50m PP landscape fabric is enough to run several strips across a modest area with overlap to spare. If you’re doing a full backyard or a long side path, the 1m x 150m weed control membrane is the more economical option — one roll covers a lot of ground and you’re not stitching together offcuts.
Overlap each strip by at least 100mm and pin it down with landscape staples every metre or so. Any gaps are where weeds will find their way through.
Step 3: Add and compact your base
Spread crushed rock or road base over the membrane to a depth of 50-75mm. Rake it level, then compact it — either hire a plate compactor for a day if you’re doing a decent-sized area, or use a hand tamper for anything under about 15 square metres. Compact in sections, checking level as you go with a straight edge or spirit level. A soft, uncompacted base is the number one reason turf ends up looking wavy or develops soft spots where people walk.
Step 4: Roll out the turf and let it settle
Unroll your turf and leave it in the sun for an hour or two before cutting anything. It relaxes and lies flatter once it’s had a chance to warm up, especially if it’s come off a tightly wound roll in cooler weather.
Position the rolls so the grass blades all face the same direction — this matters more than people expect, because turf laid in mixed directions catches light differently and you’ll see visible seams even when the join itself is perfect. The four-colour blend in this particular turf is designed to look more like a natural, slightly variegated lawn rather than a flat single shade of green, which actually helps hide joins better than plain single-tone turf.
Step 5: Cut, join and secure the edges
Trim rolls to fit your space with a sharp utility knife, cutting from the backing side so you don’t chew up the grass fibres. Where two pieces meet, butt the edges together closely rather than overlapping — overlapped seams create a visible ridge.
Secure the perimeter and any seams with turf pegs or nails spaced roughly every 150-200mm. Push them in flush so nothing pokes up where bare feet or a dog’s paws will land.
Step 6: Brush in the sand infill
Spread kiln-dried sand evenly across the surface, then work it into the pile with a stiff broom, brushing against the direction of the grain. The sand does three jobs: it weighs the turf down so it doesn’t shift, helps the blades stand upright instead of matting flat, and adds a bit of drainage support. Go over it a couple of times over the following week as the sand settles further into the base.
How long does artificial turf actually last?
A decent 35mm turf with proper base prep will typically hold up for 8-10 years of normal backyard use — kids, a medium dog, regular foot traffic. UV-stabilised synthetic fibres handle Australian summer sun without the yellowing or brittleness cheaper turf can suffer after a couple of seasons.
A few things people ask before they commit
- Does it get too hot to walk on? It can warm up on a 40-degree day like any dark surface, similar to decking or pavers. A quick hose-down cools it fast if kids are playing barefoot.
- Can I lay it over concrete? Yes, though you’ll want a shock-pad or foam underlay for comfort and drainage, since concrete won’t absorb rainfall the way a compacted base does.
- Do I need to water it? Only to hose off dust or pet mess. That’s the whole appeal — no more fortnightly watering roster in summer.
- What about dog urine? A quick rinse handles it. The sand infill and base layer below help with drainage so it doesn’t pool.
Once the sand’s brushed in and the edges are pinned down, the hardest part’s over. Give it a final brush, stand back, and enjoy the fact that you’ll never patch a bald spot in this lawn again.